Building a No-Weld Trailer Chassis











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I need a chassis for a box trailer. For now I'm focusing on the chassis itself, as once that's built I can use it to haul the rest of the things needed for the box. I'm no steel-worker though, and thanks to where I'm located getting a mobile welder out here won't be cheap. I've designed a simple ladder chassis in 50x50x3mm box section steel, and want to know the viability of simply bolting these parts together like so:



Trailer frame diagram showing material dimensions etc.



I am aware that my bolt-holes will need to be very accurate, and to prevent slippage I intend to use nylon-lined nuts, shake-proof washers, and locking fluid on bolt threads. Where the tongue meets the draw-bar two 5mm steel plates sandwich the join to prevent twisting.



Detail of the nose of the trailer



The axle, 550kg suspension units, and hubs are being purchased as a single unit from a fabricator. Each part will be individually painted after machining, and the interiors treated with rust preventative. If you want to have a look at the model it's here.



I'm aware that welded joints are generally stronger.
My question is will this design be strong enough without welding?










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Alex is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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  • 2




    I'm voting to close this question as off-topic because it isn't about home improvement as defined by this site.
    – isherwood
    Dec 3 at 14:18












  • Thanks for the input anyway :) Can you suggest a more appropriate location for it?
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 14:33






  • 3




    My $0.02 ... it's an interesting question and in the realm of things a home DIYer tackles. How else do you get the drywall home :) Or we could take it out to make room for one more question about wiring a two way switch!
    – CoAstroGeek
    Dec 3 at 16:48















up vote
1
down vote

favorite












I need a chassis for a box trailer. For now I'm focusing on the chassis itself, as once that's built I can use it to haul the rest of the things needed for the box. I'm no steel-worker though, and thanks to where I'm located getting a mobile welder out here won't be cheap. I've designed a simple ladder chassis in 50x50x3mm box section steel, and want to know the viability of simply bolting these parts together like so:



Trailer frame diagram showing material dimensions etc.



I am aware that my bolt-holes will need to be very accurate, and to prevent slippage I intend to use nylon-lined nuts, shake-proof washers, and locking fluid on bolt threads. Where the tongue meets the draw-bar two 5mm steel plates sandwich the join to prevent twisting.



Detail of the nose of the trailer



The axle, 550kg suspension units, and hubs are being purchased as a single unit from a fabricator. Each part will be individually painted after machining, and the interiors treated with rust preventative. If you want to have a look at the model it's here.



I'm aware that welded joints are generally stronger.
My question is will this design be strong enough without welding?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Alex is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
















  • 2




    I'm voting to close this question as off-topic because it isn't about home improvement as defined by this site.
    – isherwood
    Dec 3 at 14:18












  • Thanks for the input anyway :) Can you suggest a more appropriate location for it?
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 14:33






  • 3




    My $0.02 ... it's an interesting question and in the realm of things a home DIYer tackles. How else do you get the drywall home :) Or we could take it out to make room for one more question about wiring a two way switch!
    – CoAstroGeek
    Dec 3 at 16:48













up vote
1
down vote

favorite









up vote
1
down vote

favorite











I need a chassis for a box trailer. For now I'm focusing on the chassis itself, as once that's built I can use it to haul the rest of the things needed for the box. I'm no steel-worker though, and thanks to where I'm located getting a mobile welder out here won't be cheap. I've designed a simple ladder chassis in 50x50x3mm box section steel, and want to know the viability of simply bolting these parts together like so:



Trailer frame diagram showing material dimensions etc.



I am aware that my bolt-holes will need to be very accurate, and to prevent slippage I intend to use nylon-lined nuts, shake-proof washers, and locking fluid on bolt threads. Where the tongue meets the draw-bar two 5mm steel plates sandwich the join to prevent twisting.



Detail of the nose of the trailer



The axle, 550kg suspension units, and hubs are being purchased as a single unit from a fabricator. Each part will be individually painted after machining, and the interiors treated with rust preventative. If you want to have a look at the model it's here.



I'm aware that welded joints are generally stronger.
My question is will this design be strong enough without welding?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Alex is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











I need a chassis for a box trailer. For now I'm focusing on the chassis itself, as once that's built I can use it to haul the rest of the things needed for the box. I'm no steel-worker though, and thanks to where I'm located getting a mobile welder out here won't be cheap. I've designed a simple ladder chassis in 50x50x3mm box section steel, and want to know the viability of simply bolting these parts together like so:



Trailer frame diagram showing material dimensions etc.



I am aware that my bolt-holes will need to be very accurate, and to prevent slippage I intend to use nylon-lined nuts, shake-proof washers, and locking fluid on bolt threads. Where the tongue meets the draw-bar two 5mm steel plates sandwich the join to prevent twisting.



Detail of the nose of the trailer



The axle, 550kg suspension units, and hubs are being purchased as a single unit from a fabricator. Each part will be individually painted after machining, and the interiors treated with rust preventative. If you want to have a look at the model it's here.



I'm aware that welded joints are generally stronger.
My question is will this design be strong enough without welding?







framing steel bolts welding trailer






share|improve this question









New contributor




Alex is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









New contributor




Alex is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









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edited Dec 3 at 14:32





















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asked Dec 3 at 13:27









Alex

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664




New contributor




Alex is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





Alex is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






Alex is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








  • 2




    I'm voting to close this question as off-topic because it isn't about home improvement as defined by this site.
    – isherwood
    Dec 3 at 14:18












  • Thanks for the input anyway :) Can you suggest a more appropriate location for it?
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 14:33






  • 3




    My $0.02 ... it's an interesting question and in the realm of things a home DIYer tackles. How else do you get the drywall home :) Or we could take it out to make room for one more question about wiring a two way switch!
    – CoAstroGeek
    Dec 3 at 16:48














  • 2




    I'm voting to close this question as off-topic because it isn't about home improvement as defined by this site.
    – isherwood
    Dec 3 at 14:18












  • Thanks for the input anyway :) Can you suggest a more appropriate location for it?
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 14:33






  • 3




    My $0.02 ... it's an interesting question and in the realm of things a home DIYer tackles. How else do you get the drywall home :) Or we could take it out to make room for one more question about wiring a two way switch!
    – CoAstroGeek
    Dec 3 at 16:48








2




2




I'm voting to close this question as off-topic because it isn't about home improvement as defined by this site.
– isherwood
Dec 3 at 14:18






I'm voting to close this question as off-topic because it isn't about home improvement as defined by this site.
– isherwood
Dec 3 at 14:18














Thanks for the input anyway :) Can you suggest a more appropriate location for it?
– Alex
Dec 3 at 14:33




Thanks for the input anyway :) Can you suggest a more appropriate location for it?
– Alex
Dec 3 at 14:33




3




3




My $0.02 ... it's an interesting question and in the realm of things a home DIYer tackles. How else do you get the drywall home :) Or we could take it out to make room for one more question about wiring a two way switch!
– CoAstroGeek
Dec 3 at 16:48




My $0.02 ... it's an interesting question and in the realm of things a home DIYer tackles. How else do you get the drywall home :) Or we could take it out to make room for one more question about wiring a two way switch!
– CoAstroGeek
Dec 3 at 16:48










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes

















up vote
3
down vote













In my analysis your design is not going to be adequate. Here are the main points:




  1. Box steel with just 3mm thick walls can deform when squeezed under bolting pressure or when subjected to torsional pressure when bolted through the box.

  2. Carriage bolts with the square tang under the head are meant to be used with wood. Unless you intend use dozens of hours filing round holes to square the carriage bolts are not suitable. If you used a hack to make the round hole big enough diameter to accommodate the square tang then you have lost the precise alignment that you mention in your question.

  3. For a bolted construction I see a severe shortage of triangulation designed into structure to keep it square.

  4. The cantilevered cross members should have some type of edge interconnection to define the outer perimeter of the frame. The need for this would become much more obvious as you address building the next levels of the box trailer.


With the time and materials that you would spend building this you would be better off just considering purchasing an electric arc welder and doing some practice welding on scraps of steel to brush up your technique to weld this frame construction yourself.






share|improve this answer





















  • Regards the carriage bolts I'd read in product descriptions that they were intended for wood or steel, so assumed (silly me) you could hammer them home into steel like you would wood - I've now read up and indeed it's recommended you file a square hole. I feel like I could sacrifice carriage bolts so long as the other methods (nyloc, threadlock, s/p washers) were used though? I was hoping with two bolts per joint, plus the triangulation offered by the tongue would be enough. Would it perhaps help to extend the tongue to begin behind the axle, rather than in front?
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 14:20












  • I think the A-frame of the tongue provides enough triangulation on the horizontal plane, no? Then there's the deck, even if it's wooden.
    – isherwood
    Dec 3 at 14:20












  • Also on the subject of the perimeter: this will be part of the box structure. Until that is added, only the space between the hubs will be used as a load bed.
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 14:27










  • Bolts apply tension in one dimension only. In the other two dimensions, the holes weaken the structure, and paired holes are worse. Non-circular holes require special care to avoid cracks starting at inside corners.
    – amI
    Dec 3 at 19:24


















up vote
1
down vote













I think it's probably adequate for the task. 550 kg is a pretty light weight trailer. I think I'd maybe go with a heavier wall thickness or taller section on the longitudinal members, and a pair of angle braces at the rear to help prevent racking. Deck will help with that also.



How are you mounting the suspension? I do have some concern with just bolting that up to the thin wall longitudinal members without some sort of gussets or such. I have a small, lightweight (M416) trailer that developed cracks in the frame around the rear spring mounts - had to weld in doubler plates.



Basic welding with a MIG or flux core unit is pretty easy to learn, and it opens up your options for alot of stuff. I'd look into it.



Another thing to consider is how you'll be using the trailer. If it's primarily for occasional light use to the home improvement store on good roads, this is probably fine. If it will be heavily loaded, used daily and sees rough roads then you're going to see wear - as in the bolt holes wearing larger, bolts wearing and everything getting loose & sloppy until failure.






share|improve this answer























  • Suspension arrives as a 50x50mm box-section with swing-arm units that mount on the plates at each end. I haven't drawn in the suspension units themselves, but have drawn in the 'axle' bar - you can see its flange sticking out at the very bottom there. I think I'm just gonna have to nut up and learn to weld aren't I? Looking for small machine to learn on now as I have a neighbour I should be able to borrow a larger one from (as well as grab some pointers hopefully...)
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 18:45












  • Any reason why not ARC welding? MIG seems a lot more expensive to get into.
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 18:49










  • I think stick welding is more difficult in general - and even more so on thin material like this. But that may be my own bias and lack of experience. I did a little stick welding as a kid, and never got very good at it. But picked up MIG pretty easily later on.
    – CoAstroGeek
    Dec 3 at 21:04













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2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes








2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes








up vote
3
down vote













In my analysis your design is not going to be adequate. Here are the main points:




  1. Box steel with just 3mm thick walls can deform when squeezed under bolting pressure or when subjected to torsional pressure when bolted through the box.

  2. Carriage bolts with the square tang under the head are meant to be used with wood. Unless you intend use dozens of hours filing round holes to square the carriage bolts are not suitable. If you used a hack to make the round hole big enough diameter to accommodate the square tang then you have lost the precise alignment that you mention in your question.

  3. For a bolted construction I see a severe shortage of triangulation designed into structure to keep it square.

  4. The cantilevered cross members should have some type of edge interconnection to define the outer perimeter of the frame. The need for this would become much more obvious as you address building the next levels of the box trailer.


With the time and materials that you would spend building this you would be better off just considering purchasing an electric arc welder and doing some practice welding on scraps of steel to brush up your technique to weld this frame construction yourself.






share|improve this answer





















  • Regards the carriage bolts I'd read in product descriptions that they were intended for wood or steel, so assumed (silly me) you could hammer them home into steel like you would wood - I've now read up and indeed it's recommended you file a square hole. I feel like I could sacrifice carriage bolts so long as the other methods (nyloc, threadlock, s/p washers) were used though? I was hoping with two bolts per joint, plus the triangulation offered by the tongue would be enough. Would it perhaps help to extend the tongue to begin behind the axle, rather than in front?
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 14:20












  • I think the A-frame of the tongue provides enough triangulation on the horizontal plane, no? Then there's the deck, even if it's wooden.
    – isherwood
    Dec 3 at 14:20












  • Also on the subject of the perimeter: this will be part of the box structure. Until that is added, only the space between the hubs will be used as a load bed.
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 14:27










  • Bolts apply tension in one dimension only. In the other two dimensions, the holes weaken the structure, and paired holes are worse. Non-circular holes require special care to avoid cracks starting at inside corners.
    – amI
    Dec 3 at 19:24















up vote
3
down vote













In my analysis your design is not going to be adequate. Here are the main points:




  1. Box steel with just 3mm thick walls can deform when squeezed under bolting pressure or when subjected to torsional pressure when bolted through the box.

  2. Carriage bolts with the square tang under the head are meant to be used with wood. Unless you intend use dozens of hours filing round holes to square the carriage bolts are not suitable. If you used a hack to make the round hole big enough diameter to accommodate the square tang then you have lost the precise alignment that you mention in your question.

  3. For a bolted construction I see a severe shortage of triangulation designed into structure to keep it square.

  4. The cantilevered cross members should have some type of edge interconnection to define the outer perimeter of the frame. The need for this would become much more obvious as you address building the next levels of the box trailer.


With the time and materials that you would spend building this you would be better off just considering purchasing an electric arc welder and doing some practice welding on scraps of steel to brush up your technique to weld this frame construction yourself.






share|improve this answer





















  • Regards the carriage bolts I'd read in product descriptions that they were intended for wood or steel, so assumed (silly me) you could hammer them home into steel like you would wood - I've now read up and indeed it's recommended you file a square hole. I feel like I could sacrifice carriage bolts so long as the other methods (nyloc, threadlock, s/p washers) were used though? I was hoping with two bolts per joint, plus the triangulation offered by the tongue would be enough. Would it perhaps help to extend the tongue to begin behind the axle, rather than in front?
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 14:20












  • I think the A-frame of the tongue provides enough triangulation on the horizontal plane, no? Then there's the deck, even if it's wooden.
    – isherwood
    Dec 3 at 14:20












  • Also on the subject of the perimeter: this will be part of the box structure. Until that is added, only the space between the hubs will be used as a load bed.
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 14:27










  • Bolts apply tension in one dimension only. In the other two dimensions, the holes weaken the structure, and paired holes are worse. Non-circular holes require special care to avoid cracks starting at inside corners.
    – amI
    Dec 3 at 19:24













up vote
3
down vote










up vote
3
down vote









In my analysis your design is not going to be adequate. Here are the main points:




  1. Box steel with just 3mm thick walls can deform when squeezed under bolting pressure or when subjected to torsional pressure when bolted through the box.

  2. Carriage bolts with the square tang under the head are meant to be used with wood. Unless you intend use dozens of hours filing round holes to square the carriage bolts are not suitable. If you used a hack to make the round hole big enough diameter to accommodate the square tang then you have lost the precise alignment that you mention in your question.

  3. For a bolted construction I see a severe shortage of triangulation designed into structure to keep it square.

  4. The cantilevered cross members should have some type of edge interconnection to define the outer perimeter of the frame. The need for this would become much more obvious as you address building the next levels of the box trailer.


With the time and materials that you would spend building this you would be better off just considering purchasing an electric arc welder and doing some practice welding on scraps of steel to brush up your technique to weld this frame construction yourself.






share|improve this answer












In my analysis your design is not going to be adequate. Here are the main points:




  1. Box steel with just 3mm thick walls can deform when squeezed under bolting pressure or when subjected to torsional pressure when bolted through the box.

  2. Carriage bolts with the square tang under the head are meant to be used with wood. Unless you intend use dozens of hours filing round holes to square the carriage bolts are not suitable. If you used a hack to make the round hole big enough diameter to accommodate the square tang then you have lost the precise alignment that you mention in your question.

  3. For a bolted construction I see a severe shortage of triangulation designed into structure to keep it square.

  4. The cantilevered cross members should have some type of edge interconnection to define the outer perimeter of the frame. The need for this would become much more obvious as you address building the next levels of the box trailer.


With the time and materials that you would spend building this you would be better off just considering purchasing an electric arc welder and doing some practice welding on scraps of steel to brush up your technique to weld this frame construction yourself.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered Dec 3 at 14:11









Michael Karas

43.2k43482




43.2k43482












  • Regards the carriage bolts I'd read in product descriptions that they were intended for wood or steel, so assumed (silly me) you could hammer them home into steel like you would wood - I've now read up and indeed it's recommended you file a square hole. I feel like I could sacrifice carriage bolts so long as the other methods (nyloc, threadlock, s/p washers) were used though? I was hoping with two bolts per joint, plus the triangulation offered by the tongue would be enough. Would it perhaps help to extend the tongue to begin behind the axle, rather than in front?
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 14:20












  • I think the A-frame of the tongue provides enough triangulation on the horizontal plane, no? Then there's the deck, even if it's wooden.
    – isherwood
    Dec 3 at 14:20












  • Also on the subject of the perimeter: this will be part of the box structure. Until that is added, only the space between the hubs will be used as a load bed.
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 14:27










  • Bolts apply tension in one dimension only. In the other two dimensions, the holes weaken the structure, and paired holes are worse. Non-circular holes require special care to avoid cracks starting at inside corners.
    – amI
    Dec 3 at 19:24


















  • Regards the carriage bolts I'd read in product descriptions that they were intended for wood or steel, so assumed (silly me) you could hammer them home into steel like you would wood - I've now read up and indeed it's recommended you file a square hole. I feel like I could sacrifice carriage bolts so long as the other methods (nyloc, threadlock, s/p washers) were used though? I was hoping with two bolts per joint, plus the triangulation offered by the tongue would be enough. Would it perhaps help to extend the tongue to begin behind the axle, rather than in front?
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 14:20












  • I think the A-frame of the tongue provides enough triangulation on the horizontal plane, no? Then there's the deck, even if it's wooden.
    – isherwood
    Dec 3 at 14:20












  • Also on the subject of the perimeter: this will be part of the box structure. Until that is added, only the space between the hubs will be used as a load bed.
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 14:27










  • Bolts apply tension in one dimension only. In the other two dimensions, the holes weaken the structure, and paired holes are worse. Non-circular holes require special care to avoid cracks starting at inside corners.
    – amI
    Dec 3 at 19:24
















Regards the carriage bolts I'd read in product descriptions that they were intended for wood or steel, so assumed (silly me) you could hammer them home into steel like you would wood - I've now read up and indeed it's recommended you file a square hole. I feel like I could sacrifice carriage bolts so long as the other methods (nyloc, threadlock, s/p washers) were used though? I was hoping with two bolts per joint, plus the triangulation offered by the tongue would be enough. Would it perhaps help to extend the tongue to begin behind the axle, rather than in front?
– Alex
Dec 3 at 14:20






Regards the carriage bolts I'd read in product descriptions that they were intended for wood or steel, so assumed (silly me) you could hammer them home into steel like you would wood - I've now read up and indeed it's recommended you file a square hole. I feel like I could sacrifice carriage bolts so long as the other methods (nyloc, threadlock, s/p washers) were used though? I was hoping with two bolts per joint, plus the triangulation offered by the tongue would be enough. Would it perhaps help to extend the tongue to begin behind the axle, rather than in front?
– Alex
Dec 3 at 14:20














I think the A-frame of the tongue provides enough triangulation on the horizontal plane, no? Then there's the deck, even if it's wooden.
– isherwood
Dec 3 at 14:20






I think the A-frame of the tongue provides enough triangulation on the horizontal plane, no? Then there's the deck, even if it's wooden.
– isherwood
Dec 3 at 14:20














Also on the subject of the perimeter: this will be part of the box structure. Until that is added, only the space between the hubs will be used as a load bed.
– Alex
Dec 3 at 14:27




Also on the subject of the perimeter: this will be part of the box structure. Until that is added, only the space between the hubs will be used as a load bed.
– Alex
Dec 3 at 14:27












Bolts apply tension in one dimension only. In the other two dimensions, the holes weaken the structure, and paired holes are worse. Non-circular holes require special care to avoid cracks starting at inside corners.
– amI
Dec 3 at 19:24




Bolts apply tension in one dimension only. In the other two dimensions, the holes weaken the structure, and paired holes are worse. Non-circular holes require special care to avoid cracks starting at inside corners.
– amI
Dec 3 at 19:24












up vote
1
down vote













I think it's probably adequate for the task. 550 kg is a pretty light weight trailer. I think I'd maybe go with a heavier wall thickness or taller section on the longitudinal members, and a pair of angle braces at the rear to help prevent racking. Deck will help with that also.



How are you mounting the suspension? I do have some concern with just bolting that up to the thin wall longitudinal members without some sort of gussets or such. I have a small, lightweight (M416) trailer that developed cracks in the frame around the rear spring mounts - had to weld in doubler plates.



Basic welding with a MIG or flux core unit is pretty easy to learn, and it opens up your options for alot of stuff. I'd look into it.



Another thing to consider is how you'll be using the trailer. If it's primarily for occasional light use to the home improvement store on good roads, this is probably fine. If it will be heavily loaded, used daily and sees rough roads then you're going to see wear - as in the bolt holes wearing larger, bolts wearing and everything getting loose & sloppy until failure.






share|improve this answer























  • Suspension arrives as a 50x50mm box-section with swing-arm units that mount on the plates at each end. I haven't drawn in the suspension units themselves, but have drawn in the 'axle' bar - you can see its flange sticking out at the very bottom there. I think I'm just gonna have to nut up and learn to weld aren't I? Looking for small machine to learn on now as I have a neighbour I should be able to borrow a larger one from (as well as grab some pointers hopefully...)
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 18:45












  • Any reason why not ARC welding? MIG seems a lot more expensive to get into.
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 18:49










  • I think stick welding is more difficult in general - and even more so on thin material like this. But that may be my own bias and lack of experience. I did a little stick welding as a kid, and never got very good at it. But picked up MIG pretty easily later on.
    – CoAstroGeek
    Dec 3 at 21:04

















up vote
1
down vote













I think it's probably adequate for the task. 550 kg is a pretty light weight trailer. I think I'd maybe go with a heavier wall thickness or taller section on the longitudinal members, and a pair of angle braces at the rear to help prevent racking. Deck will help with that also.



How are you mounting the suspension? I do have some concern with just bolting that up to the thin wall longitudinal members without some sort of gussets or such. I have a small, lightweight (M416) trailer that developed cracks in the frame around the rear spring mounts - had to weld in doubler plates.



Basic welding with a MIG or flux core unit is pretty easy to learn, and it opens up your options for alot of stuff. I'd look into it.



Another thing to consider is how you'll be using the trailer. If it's primarily for occasional light use to the home improvement store on good roads, this is probably fine. If it will be heavily loaded, used daily and sees rough roads then you're going to see wear - as in the bolt holes wearing larger, bolts wearing and everything getting loose & sloppy until failure.






share|improve this answer























  • Suspension arrives as a 50x50mm box-section with swing-arm units that mount on the plates at each end. I haven't drawn in the suspension units themselves, but have drawn in the 'axle' bar - you can see its flange sticking out at the very bottom there. I think I'm just gonna have to nut up and learn to weld aren't I? Looking for small machine to learn on now as I have a neighbour I should be able to borrow a larger one from (as well as grab some pointers hopefully...)
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 18:45












  • Any reason why not ARC welding? MIG seems a lot more expensive to get into.
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 18:49










  • I think stick welding is more difficult in general - and even more so on thin material like this. But that may be my own bias and lack of experience. I did a little stick welding as a kid, and never got very good at it. But picked up MIG pretty easily later on.
    – CoAstroGeek
    Dec 3 at 21:04















up vote
1
down vote










up vote
1
down vote









I think it's probably adequate for the task. 550 kg is a pretty light weight trailer. I think I'd maybe go with a heavier wall thickness or taller section on the longitudinal members, and a pair of angle braces at the rear to help prevent racking. Deck will help with that also.



How are you mounting the suspension? I do have some concern with just bolting that up to the thin wall longitudinal members without some sort of gussets or such. I have a small, lightweight (M416) trailer that developed cracks in the frame around the rear spring mounts - had to weld in doubler plates.



Basic welding with a MIG or flux core unit is pretty easy to learn, and it opens up your options for alot of stuff. I'd look into it.



Another thing to consider is how you'll be using the trailer. If it's primarily for occasional light use to the home improvement store on good roads, this is probably fine. If it will be heavily loaded, used daily and sees rough roads then you're going to see wear - as in the bolt holes wearing larger, bolts wearing and everything getting loose & sloppy until failure.






share|improve this answer














I think it's probably adequate for the task. 550 kg is a pretty light weight trailer. I think I'd maybe go with a heavier wall thickness or taller section on the longitudinal members, and a pair of angle braces at the rear to help prevent racking. Deck will help with that also.



How are you mounting the suspension? I do have some concern with just bolting that up to the thin wall longitudinal members without some sort of gussets or such. I have a small, lightweight (M416) trailer that developed cracks in the frame around the rear spring mounts - had to weld in doubler plates.



Basic welding with a MIG or flux core unit is pretty easy to learn, and it opens up your options for alot of stuff. I'd look into it.



Another thing to consider is how you'll be using the trailer. If it's primarily for occasional light use to the home improvement store on good roads, this is probably fine. If it will be heavily loaded, used daily and sees rough roads then you're going to see wear - as in the bolt holes wearing larger, bolts wearing and everything getting loose & sloppy until failure.







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited Dec 3 at 23:38

























answered Dec 3 at 16:45









CoAstroGeek

1,0251512




1,0251512












  • Suspension arrives as a 50x50mm box-section with swing-arm units that mount on the plates at each end. I haven't drawn in the suspension units themselves, but have drawn in the 'axle' bar - you can see its flange sticking out at the very bottom there. I think I'm just gonna have to nut up and learn to weld aren't I? Looking for small machine to learn on now as I have a neighbour I should be able to borrow a larger one from (as well as grab some pointers hopefully...)
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 18:45












  • Any reason why not ARC welding? MIG seems a lot more expensive to get into.
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 18:49










  • I think stick welding is more difficult in general - and even more so on thin material like this. But that may be my own bias and lack of experience. I did a little stick welding as a kid, and never got very good at it. But picked up MIG pretty easily later on.
    – CoAstroGeek
    Dec 3 at 21:04




















  • Suspension arrives as a 50x50mm box-section with swing-arm units that mount on the plates at each end. I haven't drawn in the suspension units themselves, but have drawn in the 'axle' bar - you can see its flange sticking out at the very bottom there. I think I'm just gonna have to nut up and learn to weld aren't I? Looking for small machine to learn on now as I have a neighbour I should be able to borrow a larger one from (as well as grab some pointers hopefully...)
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 18:45












  • Any reason why not ARC welding? MIG seems a lot more expensive to get into.
    – Alex
    Dec 3 at 18:49










  • I think stick welding is more difficult in general - and even more so on thin material like this. But that may be my own bias and lack of experience. I did a little stick welding as a kid, and never got very good at it. But picked up MIG pretty easily later on.
    – CoAstroGeek
    Dec 3 at 21:04


















Suspension arrives as a 50x50mm box-section with swing-arm units that mount on the plates at each end. I haven't drawn in the suspension units themselves, but have drawn in the 'axle' bar - you can see its flange sticking out at the very bottom there. I think I'm just gonna have to nut up and learn to weld aren't I? Looking for small machine to learn on now as I have a neighbour I should be able to borrow a larger one from (as well as grab some pointers hopefully...)
– Alex
Dec 3 at 18:45






Suspension arrives as a 50x50mm box-section with swing-arm units that mount on the plates at each end. I haven't drawn in the suspension units themselves, but have drawn in the 'axle' bar - you can see its flange sticking out at the very bottom there. I think I'm just gonna have to nut up and learn to weld aren't I? Looking for small machine to learn on now as I have a neighbour I should be able to borrow a larger one from (as well as grab some pointers hopefully...)
– Alex
Dec 3 at 18:45














Any reason why not ARC welding? MIG seems a lot more expensive to get into.
– Alex
Dec 3 at 18:49




Any reason why not ARC welding? MIG seems a lot more expensive to get into.
– Alex
Dec 3 at 18:49












I think stick welding is more difficult in general - and even more so on thin material like this. But that may be my own bias and lack of experience. I did a little stick welding as a kid, and never got very good at it. But picked up MIG pretty easily later on.
– CoAstroGeek
Dec 3 at 21:04






I think stick welding is more difficult in general - and even more so on thin material like this. But that may be my own bias and lack of experience. I did a little stick welding as a kid, and never got very good at it. But picked up MIG pretty easily later on.
– CoAstroGeek
Dec 3 at 21:04












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