I lost my closet key, how to open it?
up vote
17
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I lost the key to a closet and I need to open it. I don't need for the lock to remain opperative after the opperation, so I accept "radical" solutions.
The key is of this type:
I have no experience or tools for lockpicking.
Any ideas?
Edit:
I was not able to open it yet. I am adding pictures of the actual door and lock
locks
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up vote
17
down vote
favorite
I lost the key to a closet and I need to open it. I don't need for the lock to remain opperative after the opperation, so I accept "radical" solutions.
The key is of this type:
I have no experience or tools for lockpicking.
Any ideas?
Edit:
I was not able to open it yet. I am adding pictures of the actual door and lock
locks
New contributor
Guillermo Vasconcelos is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
3
You might want to firm up your question. I don't think "sawzall" is the answer you want but the question just about screams "sawzall" to me.
– Joshua
2 days ago
@Joshua I do not own a sawzall and do not plan to buy one, so it is not an option. Thanks for the suggestion
– Guillermo Vasconcelos
2 days ago
We really need a picture of the lock and the door. Not just the key. Not being familiar with US English, I'm not sure what you mean by 'closet'. Is it built into the wall or is it free-standing?
– chasly from UK
yesterday
The door hinges are designed so that the door would be removed by opening it and then lifting it off the hinges, rather than by removing the hinge pin. The lighting of the picture is not very good, but the appearance is consistent with either a crude warded lock or a crude lever lock. Does the keyhole extend all the way through the door? If so, and you can get a dowel the right diameter to serve as the shaft of the key, you might try putting a small finishing nail in the side of it (maybe an inch from the end), extending out about as far as a key would go, and then...
– supercat
yesterday
...inserting it to different depths and turning it to see whether you feel spring-loaded levers or rigid warding.
– supercat
yesterday
|
show 2 more comments
up vote
17
down vote
favorite
up vote
17
down vote
favorite
I lost the key to a closet and I need to open it. I don't need for the lock to remain opperative after the opperation, so I accept "radical" solutions.
The key is of this type:
I have no experience or tools for lockpicking.
Any ideas?
Edit:
I was not able to open it yet. I am adding pictures of the actual door and lock
locks
New contributor
Guillermo Vasconcelos is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I lost the key to a closet and I need to open it. I don't need for the lock to remain opperative after the opperation, so I accept "radical" solutions.
The key is of this type:
I have no experience or tools for lockpicking.
Any ideas?
Edit:
I was not able to open it yet. I am adding pictures of the actual door and lock
locks
locks
New contributor
Guillermo Vasconcelos is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Guillermo Vasconcelos is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited yesterday
sondra.kinsey
1032
1032
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asked 2 days ago
Guillermo Vasconcelos
18617
18617
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Guillermo Vasconcelos is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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New contributor
Guillermo Vasconcelos is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Guillermo Vasconcelos is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
3
You might want to firm up your question. I don't think "sawzall" is the answer you want but the question just about screams "sawzall" to me.
– Joshua
2 days ago
@Joshua I do not own a sawzall and do not plan to buy one, so it is not an option. Thanks for the suggestion
– Guillermo Vasconcelos
2 days ago
We really need a picture of the lock and the door. Not just the key. Not being familiar with US English, I'm not sure what you mean by 'closet'. Is it built into the wall or is it free-standing?
– chasly from UK
yesterday
The door hinges are designed so that the door would be removed by opening it and then lifting it off the hinges, rather than by removing the hinge pin. The lighting of the picture is not very good, but the appearance is consistent with either a crude warded lock or a crude lever lock. Does the keyhole extend all the way through the door? If so, and you can get a dowel the right diameter to serve as the shaft of the key, you might try putting a small finishing nail in the side of it (maybe an inch from the end), extending out about as far as a key would go, and then...
– supercat
yesterday
...inserting it to different depths and turning it to see whether you feel spring-loaded levers or rigid warding.
– supercat
yesterday
|
show 2 more comments
3
You might want to firm up your question. I don't think "sawzall" is the answer you want but the question just about screams "sawzall" to me.
– Joshua
2 days ago
@Joshua I do not own a sawzall and do not plan to buy one, so it is not an option. Thanks for the suggestion
– Guillermo Vasconcelos
2 days ago
We really need a picture of the lock and the door. Not just the key. Not being familiar with US English, I'm not sure what you mean by 'closet'. Is it built into the wall or is it free-standing?
– chasly from UK
yesterday
The door hinges are designed so that the door would be removed by opening it and then lifting it off the hinges, rather than by removing the hinge pin. The lighting of the picture is not very good, but the appearance is consistent with either a crude warded lock or a crude lever lock. Does the keyhole extend all the way through the door? If so, and you can get a dowel the right diameter to serve as the shaft of the key, you might try putting a small finishing nail in the side of it (maybe an inch from the end), extending out about as far as a key would go, and then...
– supercat
yesterday
...inserting it to different depths and turning it to see whether you feel spring-loaded levers or rigid warding.
– supercat
yesterday
3
3
You might want to firm up your question. I don't think "sawzall" is the answer you want but the question just about screams "sawzall" to me.
– Joshua
2 days ago
You might want to firm up your question. I don't think "sawzall" is the answer you want but the question just about screams "sawzall" to me.
– Joshua
2 days ago
@Joshua I do not own a sawzall and do not plan to buy one, so it is not an option. Thanks for the suggestion
– Guillermo Vasconcelos
2 days ago
@Joshua I do not own a sawzall and do not plan to buy one, so it is not an option. Thanks for the suggestion
– Guillermo Vasconcelos
2 days ago
We really need a picture of the lock and the door. Not just the key. Not being familiar with US English, I'm not sure what you mean by 'closet'. Is it built into the wall or is it free-standing?
– chasly from UK
yesterday
We really need a picture of the lock and the door. Not just the key. Not being familiar with US English, I'm not sure what you mean by 'closet'. Is it built into the wall or is it free-standing?
– chasly from UK
yesterday
The door hinges are designed so that the door would be removed by opening it and then lifting it off the hinges, rather than by removing the hinge pin. The lighting of the picture is not very good, but the appearance is consistent with either a crude warded lock or a crude lever lock. Does the keyhole extend all the way through the door? If so, and you can get a dowel the right diameter to serve as the shaft of the key, you might try putting a small finishing nail in the side of it (maybe an inch from the end), extending out about as far as a key would go, and then...
– supercat
yesterday
The door hinges are designed so that the door would be removed by opening it and then lifting it off the hinges, rather than by removing the hinge pin. The lighting of the picture is not very good, but the appearance is consistent with either a crude warded lock or a crude lever lock. Does the keyhole extend all the way through the door? If so, and you can get a dowel the right diameter to serve as the shaft of the key, you might try putting a small finishing nail in the side of it (maybe an inch from the end), extending out about as far as a key would go, and then...
– supercat
yesterday
...inserting it to different depths and turning it to see whether you feel spring-loaded levers or rigid warding.
– supercat
yesterday
...inserting it to different depths and turning it to see whether you feel spring-loaded levers or rigid warding.
– supercat
yesterday
|
show 2 more comments
9 Answers
9
active
oldest
votes
up vote
30
down vote
Very few if any closets open inward -- which means the hinges will have their pins on the accessible side. Just drive the pins out of the hinges, and the entire door can be pulled out of the frame (and easily put back once the lock is either opened, replaced, or the key found and duplicated).
If the pins are peened in place, a tool like a Dremel could be used to cut one head off so the pin can be removed.
2
Thinking outside the "closet"... just remove the door +1
– Nelson
2 days ago
3
Why do you think the hinges would be outside when it opens to the outside? My closet has the hinge systems on the inside, but the doors open to the outside
– Ferrybig
yesterday
1
@Ferrybig a picture of the closet in the question would help. If it uses standard hinges, then they will be on the outside. (Butt, butterfly, etc) A barrel or concealed hinge will of course not have an outside hinge. Given the key, it's an older cabinet (so not a concealed hinge) which leaves the very common butt hinge, or comparatively rare barrel hinge, so it's a good bet that the hinge in this case is external.
– Baldrickk
yesterday
1
@Ferrybig Zeiss is probably assuming that because that's how the vast majority of doors work. It would take a non-standard hinge for doors to open on the opposite side. Something like that would not normally be done for something like an closet.
– Kevin
yesterday
6
Now that a picture has been added, it's clear that the type of hinges used do not have pins that can be removed, but this is still and answer that could help someone else.
– JPhi1618
yesterday
|
show 2 more comments
up vote
14
down vote
Vintage locks employed two concepts, sometimes individually and sometimes together.
A warded lock has structures within the lock, called warding, which are designed to fit in notches carved into the key. A quality warded lock will be constructed so that the only way for a key to reach the mechanism is for it to snake around some complicated warding, but many cheaper warded locks can be opened with a skeleton key, which is a key blank that is filed down to remove everything except one or two simple projections or pairs of projections that will operate the mechanism. The way to defeat a quality warded lock is to construct a key by starting with a suitable key blank, covering it with soot or similar material, attempting to open the lock, moving the key back and forth a little at the place it is blocked, carefully removing it, and looking for markings in the soot. Cut, file, or otherwise remove the parts of the key where the soot was marked by the warding and try again. Either the lock will open, or new markings will appear, which again need to be removed. This process can sometimes be slow and tedious, but one will end up with a usable key, greatly increasing the value of the lock to a collector.
Lever locks have one or more levers that must be lifted to the correct height to allow the bolt to move. Lever locks will often have a different feel from warded locks, since warded locks will usually block the key before it has a chance to engage the mechanism, while lever locks will allow the key to engage the mechanism but will block the mechanism from moving fully unless the levers are lifted to the correct height. Many lever locks can be picked relatively easily with the proper tools, but picking would require using a pair of tools, with one being used to try to operate the mechanism which is blocked by the levers, while the other tool is used to try lifting the levers. Often, there will initially be one lever blocking the bolt; once that lever is moved to the right position (i.e. "set"), the bolt will be able to move a little bit before being blocked by another lever. If the bolt is kept under tension, this will rather conveniently hold the first lever in place while the picker focuses attention on the next lever that needs to be set.
The best locks combine these two approaches, requiring intricately-cut keys which need to move several different levers simultaneously by relatively precise amounts. Such locks are much more expensive to manufacture than current designs. Although they may be as secure or even more so than most recent locks, the additional security they offer is not sufficient to justify their cost.
I would not expect a closet door to have a particularly high-quality lock. If the lock uses warding to distinguish correct and incorrect keys, picking with crude tools may be easy. If it uses levers for that purpose, picking will require the simultaneous use of two tools that are designed to work together. There are many youtube videos and web tutorials that would explain how to make the required tools. If you can find some old keys that look like they would fit, I would suggest trying them and seeing what happens. If the key is blocked by something in the lock without engaging a mechanism, you probably have a warded lock. If the key engages the mechanism but the mechanism itself feels blocked, it's probably a lever lock.
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up vote
13
down vote
I should suggest trying a bobbypin or a smaller flathead screwdriver if you'd like to save it. From my experience, these types of locks are very easily opened, even with almost no skill in lockpicking. After all, you might find the key again.
Another option could be to drill out the center of the lock, therein making it very easy to open the door. This would, of course, entirely destroy the lock, but you have already said this is not an issue.
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1
I was maybe 10 years old and grandma used to store chocolates and condensed milk on a closet with a similar key/lock. It was easy to open and close it with a strong paper clip :)
– brasofilo
yesterday
1
I'm not sure drilling the centre is going to help. You'll just destroy the mechanism but the bolt will still be in place.
– chasly from UK
11 hours ago
@chaslyfromUK Then you can turn it sideways and shake and the bolt will slide out.
– wizzwizz4
7 hours ago
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up vote
8
down vote
The original image of the key is interesting to me. You could just wander into the local locksmith and ask if they have a set of keys that might fit. There's a limited number of variants on these keys and you may just be able to buy one off the shelf as the lock is only a token gesture towards security.
If you're not overly attached to the lock, there's the question of how firmly it's attached. many cabinet locks are lightly attached to the inside of the door and if you attach a decent handle to the outside you could possibly just force it open. Though the hinges are quite heavy duty which implies a more solid door and lock mechanism.
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up vote
7
down vote
Other suggested methods of removing the hinge pins or picking the locks are good.
You can also try to depress the latch via a thin wire if the door opens out or a thin plastic card if the door opens inward. What you goal would be is to depress the latch as if the door were closing on its own.
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2
This is what used to be call "jimmying" the door, then later came be "carding" the lock. Works well for simple locksets intended for interior doors.
– Zeiss Ikon
2 days ago
3
That won't work because it is a deadbolt, not the ones with a spring
– Guillermo Vasconcelos
2 days ago
@GuillermoVasconcelos - yes my suggestion would not work then, picking seems like the best bet.
– Gary Bak
yesterday
In BrE, a "jimmy" (or "jemmy") is usually a crowbar; it's not even vaguely the same as using a wire or card on the latch.
– Roger Lipscombe
yesterday
@RogerLipscombe Can't talk to older history, but when I was a kid, a jimmy was what later became a "slim jim" -- mainly for opening car doors when the key was locked inside. Thin and flexible. Still won't work on a deadbolt, though.
– Zeiss Ikon
yesterday
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
Well, if you don't care about locking it again, I'd find my trusty old Fein multimaster cutter and just cut the lock open. Or if you want the gentle solution use a small hacksaw blade.
+1 to hacksaw. They cost pennies and you can easily fit the blade into that big gap
– Valorum
8 hours ago
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up vote
1
down vote
Use a punch and hammer. Insert the punch where the key would go...use the hammer to drive the lock mechanism off the back of the door. A couple of good whacks and you should be wide open. Shame to bust it though..I would try the bobby pin method first.
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up vote
1
down vote
Is that a skylight window above the door? Perhaps you can gain access through it.
I am not suggesting climbing in through the window -- that's probably not practical. But perhaps you can open it, and then with possibly reach through it with a stick or belt, open the lock from the inside.
I am assuming the door has an inside lock latch (for safety) which you might be able to toggle with a broomstick.
If such a latch is 'down' and you need to pull it 'up', a 1" eye-hook screwed into end of stick might give you the purchase you need to pull up on the latch. (You might need to screw the eye-hook in at 45degree angle on stick.)
A knob would be much harder to turn, but perhaps you could buckle a couple of belts together into a 3-4' diameter loop which you dangle down from the skylight, perhaps with some resin on one of them to make it 'sticky', loop one end around the knob as if it was a pulley, then attempt to turn it.
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up vote
0
down vote
One way is to cut horizontally through each hinge where the join is. Then the door will open outwards on the hinge side (provided it's not very stiff which is a problem anyway).
Look on YouTube and you will find many videos showing you how to pick or bypass different kinds of lock.
Example
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiFj3_4ZJcA
- Get a quote from a qualified locksmith. They will do it in seconds without damaging anything. It might be worth the money. Otherwise you could be spending it on repairing the closet.
add a comment |
9 Answers
9
active
oldest
votes
9 Answers
9
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
30
down vote
Very few if any closets open inward -- which means the hinges will have their pins on the accessible side. Just drive the pins out of the hinges, and the entire door can be pulled out of the frame (and easily put back once the lock is either opened, replaced, or the key found and duplicated).
If the pins are peened in place, a tool like a Dremel could be used to cut one head off so the pin can be removed.
2
Thinking outside the "closet"... just remove the door +1
– Nelson
2 days ago
3
Why do you think the hinges would be outside when it opens to the outside? My closet has the hinge systems on the inside, but the doors open to the outside
– Ferrybig
yesterday
1
@Ferrybig a picture of the closet in the question would help. If it uses standard hinges, then they will be on the outside. (Butt, butterfly, etc) A barrel or concealed hinge will of course not have an outside hinge. Given the key, it's an older cabinet (so not a concealed hinge) which leaves the very common butt hinge, or comparatively rare barrel hinge, so it's a good bet that the hinge in this case is external.
– Baldrickk
yesterday
1
@Ferrybig Zeiss is probably assuming that because that's how the vast majority of doors work. It would take a non-standard hinge for doors to open on the opposite side. Something like that would not normally be done for something like an closet.
– Kevin
yesterday
6
Now that a picture has been added, it's clear that the type of hinges used do not have pins that can be removed, but this is still and answer that could help someone else.
– JPhi1618
yesterday
|
show 2 more comments
up vote
30
down vote
Very few if any closets open inward -- which means the hinges will have their pins on the accessible side. Just drive the pins out of the hinges, and the entire door can be pulled out of the frame (and easily put back once the lock is either opened, replaced, or the key found and duplicated).
If the pins are peened in place, a tool like a Dremel could be used to cut one head off so the pin can be removed.
2
Thinking outside the "closet"... just remove the door +1
– Nelson
2 days ago
3
Why do you think the hinges would be outside when it opens to the outside? My closet has the hinge systems on the inside, but the doors open to the outside
– Ferrybig
yesterday
1
@Ferrybig a picture of the closet in the question would help. If it uses standard hinges, then they will be on the outside. (Butt, butterfly, etc) A barrel or concealed hinge will of course not have an outside hinge. Given the key, it's an older cabinet (so not a concealed hinge) which leaves the very common butt hinge, or comparatively rare barrel hinge, so it's a good bet that the hinge in this case is external.
– Baldrickk
yesterday
1
@Ferrybig Zeiss is probably assuming that because that's how the vast majority of doors work. It would take a non-standard hinge for doors to open on the opposite side. Something like that would not normally be done for something like an closet.
– Kevin
yesterday
6
Now that a picture has been added, it's clear that the type of hinges used do not have pins that can be removed, but this is still and answer that could help someone else.
– JPhi1618
yesterday
|
show 2 more comments
up vote
30
down vote
up vote
30
down vote
Very few if any closets open inward -- which means the hinges will have their pins on the accessible side. Just drive the pins out of the hinges, and the entire door can be pulled out of the frame (and easily put back once the lock is either opened, replaced, or the key found and duplicated).
If the pins are peened in place, a tool like a Dremel could be used to cut one head off so the pin can be removed.
Very few if any closets open inward -- which means the hinges will have their pins on the accessible side. Just drive the pins out of the hinges, and the entire door can be pulled out of the frame (and easily put back once the lock is either opened, replaced, or the key found and duplicated).
If the pins are peened in place, a tool like a Dremel could be used to cut one head off so the pin can be removed.
answered 2 days ago
![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQaPN.jpg?s=32&g=1)
![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQaPN.jpg?s=32&g=1)
Zeiss Ikon
7,082728
7,082728
2
Thinking outside the "closet"... just remove the door +1
– Nelson
2 days ago
3
Why do you think the hinges would be outside when it opens to the outside? My closet has the hinge systems on the inside, but the doors open to the outside
– Ferrybig
yesterday
1
@Ferrybig a picture of the closet in the question would help. If it uses standard hinges, then they will be on the outside. (Butt, butterfly, etc) A barrel or concealed hinge will of course not have an outside hinge. Given the key, it's an older cabinet (so not a concealed hinge) which leaves the very common butt hinge, or comparatively rare barrel hinge, so it's a good bet that the hinge in this case is external.
– Baldrickk
yesterday
1
@Ferrybig Zeiss is probably assuming that because that's how the vast majority of doors work. It would take a non-standard hinge for doors to open on the opposite side. Something like that would not normally be done for something like an closet.
– Kevin
yesterday
6
Now that a picture has been added, it's clear that the type of hinges used do not have pins that can be removed, but this is still and answer that could help someone else.
– JPhi1618
yesterday
|
show 2 more comments
2
Thinking outside the "closet"... just remove the door +1
– Nelson
2 days ago
3
Why do you think the hinges would be outside when it opens to the outside? My closet has the hinge systems on the inside, but the doors open to the outside
– Ferrybig
yesterday
1
@Ferrybig a picture of the closet in the question would help. If it uses standard hinges, then they will be on the outside. (Butt, butterfly, etc) A barrel or concealed hinge will of course not have an outside hinge. Given the key, it's an older cabinet (so not a concealed hinge) which leaves the very common butt hinge, or comparatively rare barrel hinge, so it's a good bet that the hinge in this case is external.
– Baldrickk
yesterday
1
@Ferrybig Zeiss is probably assuming that because that's how the vast majority of doors work. It would take a non-standard hinge for doors to open on the opposite side. Something like that would not normally be done for something like an closet.
– Kevin
yesterday
6
Now that a picture has been added, it's clear that the type of hinges used do not have pins that can be removed, but this is still and answer that could help someone else.
– JPhi1618
yesterday
2
2
Thinking outside the "closet"... just remove the door +1
– Nelson
2 days ago
Thinking outside the "closet"... just remove the door +1
– Nelson
2 days ago
3
3
Why do you think the hinges would be outside when it opens to the outside? My closet has the hinge systems on the inside, but the doors open to the outside
– Ferrybig
yesterday
Why do you think the hinges would be outside when it opens to the outside? My closet has the hinge systems on the inside, but the doors open to the outside
– Ferrybig
yesterday
1
1
@Ferrybig a picture of the closet in the question would help. If it uses standard hinges, then they will be on the outside. (Butt, butterfly, etc) A barrel or concealed hinge will of course not have an outside hinge. Given the key, it's an older cabinet (so not a concealed hinge) which leaves the very common butt hinge, or comparatively rare barrel hinge, so it's a good bet that the hinge in this case is external.
– Baldrickk
yesterday
@Ferrybig a picture of the closet in the question would help. If it uses standard hinges, then they will be on the outside. (Butt, butterfly, etc) A barrel or concealed hinge will of course not have an outside hinge. Given the key, it's an older cabinet (so not a concealed hinge) which leaves the very common butt hinge, or comparatively rare barrel hinge, so it's a good bet that the hinge in this case is external.
– Baldrickk
yesterday
1
1
@Ferrybig Zeiss is probably assuming that because that's how the vast majority of doors work. It would take a non-standard hinge for doors to open on the opposite side. Something like that would not normally be done for something like an closet.
– Kevin
yesterday
@Ferrybig Zeiss is probably assuming that because that's how the vast majority of doors work. It would take a non-standard hinge for doors to open on the opposite side. Something like that would not normally be done for something like an closet.
– Kevin
yesterday
6
6
Now that a picture has been added, it's clear that the type of hinges used do not have pins that can be removed, but this is still and answer that could help someone else.
– JPhi1618
yesterday
Now that a picture has been added, it's clear that the type of hinges used do not have pins that can be removed, but this is still and answer that could help someone else.
– JPhi1618
yesterday
|
show 2 more comments
up vote
14
down vote
Vintage locks employed two concepts, sometimes individually and sometimes together.
A warded lock has structures within the lock, called warding, which are designed to fit in notches carved into the key. A quality warded lock will be constructed so that the only way for a key to reach the mechanism is for it to snake around some complicated warding, but many cheaper warded locks can be opened with a skeleton key, which is a key blank that is filed down to remove everything except one or two simple projections or pairs of projections that will operate the mechanism. The way to defeat a quality warded lock is to construct a key by starting with a suitable key blank, covering it with soot or similar material, attempting to open the lock, moving the key back and forth a little at the place it is blocked, carefully removing it, and looking for markings in the soot. Cut, file, or otherwise remove the parts of the key where the soot was marked by the warding and try again. Either the lock will open, or new markings will appear, which again need to be removed. This process can sometimes be slow and tedious, but one will end up with a usable key, greatly increasing the value of the lock to a collector.
Lever locks have one or more levers that must be lifted to the correct height to allow the bolt to move. Lever locks will often have a different feel from warded locks, since warded locks will usually block the key before it has a chance to engage the mechanism, while lever locks will allow the key to engage the mechanism but will block the mechanism from moving fully unless the levers are lifted to the correct height. Many lever locks can be picked relatively easily with the proper tools, but picking would require using a pair of tools, with one being used to try to operate the mechanism which is blocked by the levers, while the other tool is used to try lifting the levers. Often, there will initially be one lever blocking the bolt; once that lever is moved to the right position (i.e. "set"), the bolt will be able to move a little bit before being blocked by another lever. If the bolt is kept under tension, this will rather conveniently hold the first lever in place while the picker focuses attention on the next lever that needs to be set.
The best locks combine these two approaches, requiring intricately-cut keys which need to move several different levers simultaneously by relatively precise amounts. Such locks are much more expensive to manufacture than current designs. Although they may be as secure or even more so than most recent locks, the additional security they offer is not sufficient to justify their cost.
I would not expect a closet door to have a particularly high-quality lock. If the lock uses warding to distinguish correct and incorrect keys, picking with crude tools may be easy. If it uses levers for that purpose, picking will require the simultaneous use of two tools that are designed to work together. There are many youtube videos and web tutorials that would explain how to make the required tools. If you can find some old keys that look like they would fit, I would suggest trying them and seeing what happens. If the key is blocked by something in the lock without engaging a mechanism, you probably have a warded lock. If the key engages the mechanism but the mechanism itself feels blocked, it's probably a lever lock.
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up vote
14
down vote
Vintage locks employed two concepts, sometimes individually and sometimes together.
A warded lock has structures within the lock, called warding, which are designed to fit in notches carved into the key. A quality warded lock will be constructed so that the only way for a key to reach the mechanism is for it to snake around some complicated warding, but many cheaper warded locks can be opened with a skeleton key, which is a key blank that is filed down to remove everything except one or two simple projections or pairs of projections that will operate the mechanism. The way to defeat a quality warded lock is to construct a key by starting with a suitable key blank, covering it with soot or similar material, attempting to open the lock, moving the key back and forth a little at the place it is blocked, carefully removing it, and looking for markings in the soot. Cut, file, or otherwise remove the parts of the key where the soot was marked by the warding and try again. Either the lock will open, or new markings will appear, which again need to be removed. This process can sometimes be slow and tedious, but one will end up with a usable key, greatly increasing the value of the lock to a collector.
Lever locks have one or more levers that must be lifted to the correct height to allow the bolt to move. Lever locks will often have a different feel from warded locks, since warded locks will usually block the key before it has a chance to engage the mechanism, while lever locks will allow the key to engage the mechanism but will block the mechanism from moving fully unless the levers are lifted to the correct height. Many lever locks can be picked relatively easily with the proper tools, but picking would require using a pair of tools, with one being used to try to operate the mechanism which is blocked by the levers, while the other tool is used to try lifting the levers. Often, there will initially be one lever blocking the bolt; once that lever is moved to the right position (i.e. "set"), the bolt will be able to move a little bit before being blocked by another lever. If the bolt is kept under tension, this will rather conveniently hold the first lever in place while the picker focuses attention on the next lever that needs to be set.
The best locks combine these two approaches, requiring intricately-cut keys which need to move several different levers simultaneously by relatively precise amounts. Such locks are much more expensive to manufacture than current designs. Although they may be as secure or even more so than most recent locks, the additional security they offer is not sufficient to justify their cost.
I would not expect a closet door to have a particularly high-quality lock. If the lock uses warding to distinguish correct and incorrect keys, picking with crude tools may be easy. If it uses levers for that purpose, picking will require the simultaneous use of two tools that are designed to work together. There are many youtube videos and web tutorials that would explain how to make the required tools. If you can find some old keys that look like they would fit, I would suggest trying them and seeing what happens. If the key is blocked by something in the lock without engaging a mechanism, you probably have a warded lock. If the key engages the mechanism but the mechanism itself feels blocked, it's probably a lever lock.
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supercat is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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add a comment |
up vote
14
down vote
up vote
14
down vote
Vintage locks employed two concepts, sometimes individually and sometimes together.
A warded lock has structures within the lock, called warding, which are designed to fit in notches carved into the key. A quality warded lock will be constructed so that the only way for a key to reach the mechanism is for it to snake around some complicated warding, but many cheaper warded locks can be opened with a skeleton key, which is a key blank that is filed down to remove everything except one or two simple projections or pairs of projections that will operate the mechanism. The way to defeat a quality warded lock is to construct a key by starting with a suitable key blank, covering it with soot or similar material, attempting to open the lock, moving the key back and forth a little at the place it is blocked, carefully removing it, and looking for markings in the soot. Cut, file, or otherwise remove the parts of the key where the soot was marked by the warding and try again. Either the lock will open, or new markings will appear, which again need to be removed. This process can sometimes be slow and tedious, but one will end up with a usable key, greatly increasing the value of the lock to a collector.
Lever locks have one or more levers that must be lifted to the correct height to allow the bolt to move. Lever locks will often have a different feel from warded locks, since warded locks will usually block the key before it has a chance to engage the mechanism, while lever locks will allow the key to engage the mechanism but will block the mechanism from moving fully unless the levers are lifted to the correct height. Many lever locks can be picked relatively easily with the proper tools, but picking would require using a pair of tools, with one being used to try to operate the mechanism which is blocked by the levers, while the other tool is used to try lifting the levers. Often, there will initially be one lever blocking the bolt; once that lever is moved to the right position (i.e. "set"), the bolt will be able to move a little bit before being blocked by another lever. If the bolt is kept under tension, this will rather conveniently hold the first lever in place while the picker focuses attention on the next lever that needs to be set.
The best locks combine these two approaches, requiring intricately-cut keys which need to move several different levers simultaneously by relatively precise amounts. Such locks are much more expensive to manufacture than current designs. Although they may be as secure or even more so than most recent locks, the additional security they offer is not sufficient to justify their cost.
I would not expect a closet door to have a particularly high-quality lock. If the lock uses warding to distinguish correct and incorrect keys, picking with crude tools may be easy. If it uses levers for that purpose, picking will require the simultaneous use of two tools that are designed to work together. There are many youtube videos and web tutorials that would explain how to make the required tools. If you can find some old keys that look like they would fit, I would suggest trying them and seeing what happens. If the key is blocked by something in the lock without engaging a mechanism, you probably have a warded lock. If the key engages the mechanism but the mechanism itself feels blocked, it's probably a lever lock.
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supercat is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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Vintage locks employed two concepts, sometimes individually and sometimes together.
A warded lock has structures within the lock, called warding, which are designed to fit in notches carved into the key. A quality warded lock will be constructed so that the only way for a key to reach the mechanism is for it to snake around some complicated warding, but many cheaper warded locks can be opened with a skeleton key, which is a key blank that is filed down to remove everything except one or two simple projections or pairs of projections that will operate the mechanism. The way to defeat a quality warded lock is to construct a key by starting with a suitable key blank, covering it with soot or similar material, attempting to open the lock, moving the key back and forth a little at the place it is blocked, carefully removing it, and looking for markings in the soot. Cut, file, or otherwise remove the parts of the key where the soot was marked by the warding and try again. Either the lock will open, or new markings will appear, which again need to be removed. This process can sometimes be slow and tedious, but one will end up with a usable key, greatly increasing the value of the lock to a collector.
Lever locks have one or more levers that must be lifted to the correct height to allow the bolt to move. Lever locks will often have a different feel from warded locks, since warded locks will usually block the key before it has a chance to engage the mechanism, while lever locks will allow the key to engage the mechanism but will block the mechanism from moving fully unless the levers are lifted to the correct height. Many lever locks can be picked relatively easily with the proper tools, but picking would require using a pair of tools, with one being used to try to operate the mechanism which is blocked by the levers, while the other tool is used to try lifting the levers. Often, there will initially be one lever blocking the bolt; once that lever is moved to the right position (i.e. "set"), the bolt will be able to move a little bit before being blocked by another lever. If the bolt is kept under tension, this will rather conveniently hold the first lever in place while the picker focuses attention on the next lever that needs to be set.
The best locks combine these two approaches, requiring intricately-cut keys which need to move several different levers simultaneously by relatively precise amounts. Such locks are much more expensive to manufacture than current designs. Although they may be as secure or even more so than most recent locks, the additional security they offer is not sufficient to justify their cost.
I would not expect a closet door to have a particularly high-quality lock. If the lock uses warding to distinguish correct and incorrect keys, picking with crude tools may be easy. If it uses levers for that purpose, picking will require the simultaneous use of two tools that are designed to work together. There are many youtube videos and web tutorials that would explain how to make the required tools. If you can find some old keys that look like they would fit, I would suggest trying them and seeing what happens. If the key is blocked by something in the lock without engaging a mechanism, you probably have a warded lock. If the key engages the mechanism but the mechanism itself feels blocked, it's probably a lever lock.
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answered 2 days ago
supercat
24112
24112
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add a comment |
add a comment |
up vote
13
down vote
I should suggest trying a bobbypin or a smaller flathead screwdriver if you'd like to save it. From my experience, these types of locks are very easily opened, even with almost no skill in lockpicking. After all, you might find the key again.
Another option could be to drill out the center of the lock, therein making it very easy to open the door. This would, of course, entirely destroy the lock, but you have already said this is not an issue.
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1
I was maybe 10 years old and grandma used to store chocolates and condensed milk on a closet with a similar key/lock. It was easy to open and close it with a strong paper clip :)
– brasofilo
yesterday
1
I'm not sure drilling the centre is going to help. You'll just destroy the mechanism but the bolt will still be in place.
– chasly from UK
11 hours ago
@chaslyfromUK Then you can turn it sideways and shake and the bolt will slide out.
– wizzwizz4
7 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
13
down vote
I should suggest trying a bobbypin or a smaller flathead screwdriver if you'd like to save it. From my experience, these types of locks are very easily opened, even with almost no skill in lockpicking. After all, you might find the key again.
Another option could be to drill out the center of the lock, therein making it very easy to open the door. This would, of course, entirely destroy the lock, but you have already said this is not an issue.
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Paul Beverage is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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1
I was maybe 10 years old and grandma used to store chocolates and condensed milk on a closet with a similar key/lock. It was easy to open and close it with a strong paper clip :)
– brasofilo
yesterday
1
I'm not sure drilling the centre is going to help. You'll just destroy the mechanism but the bolt will still be in place.
– chasly from UK
11 hours ago
@chaslyfromUK Then you can turn it sideways and shake and the bolt will slide out.
– wizzwizz4
7 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
13
down vote
up vote
13
down vote
I should suggest trying a bobbypin or a smaller flathead screwdriver if you'd like to save it. From my experience, these types of locks are very easily opened, even with almost no skill in lockpicking. After all, you might find the key again.
Another option could be to drill out the center of the lock, therein making it very easy to open the door. This would, of course, entirely destroy the lock, but you have already said this is not an issue.
New contributor
Paul Beverage is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I should suggest trying a bobbypin or a smaller flathead screwdriver if you'd like to save it. From my experience, these types of locks are very easily opened, even with almost no skill in lockpicking. After all, you might find the key again.
Another option could be to drill out the center of the lock, therein making it very easy to open the door. This would, of course, entirely destroy the lock, but you have already said this is not an issue.
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Paul Beverage is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
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Paul Beverage is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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answered 2 days ago
![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tU8kS.jpg?s=32&g=1)
![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tU8kS.jpg?s=32&g=1)
Paul Beverage
2635
2635
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Paul Beverage is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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New contributor
Paul Beverage is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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Paul Beverage is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
1
I was maybe 10 years old and grandma used to store chocolates and condensed milk on a closet with a similar key/lock. It was easy to open and close it with a strong paper clip :)
– brasofilo
yesterday
1
I'm not sure drilling the centre is going to help. You'll just destroy the mechanism but the bolt will still be in place.
– chasly from UK
11 hours ago
@chaslyfromUK Then you can turn it sideways and shake and the bolt will slide out.
– wizzwizz4
7 hours ago
add a comment |
1
I was maybe 10 years old and grandma used to store chocolates and condensed milk on a closet with a similar key/lock. It was easy to open and close it with a strong paper clip :)
– brasofilo
yesterday
1
I'm not sure drilling the centre is going to help. You'll just destroy the mechanism but the bolt will still be in place.
– chasly from UK
11 hours ago
@chaslyfromUK Then you can turn it sideways and shake and the bolt will slide out.
– wizzwizz4
7 hours ago
1
1
I was maybe 10 years old and grandma used to store chocolates and condensed milk on a closet with a similar key/lock. It was easy to open and close it with a strong paper clip :)
– brasofilo
yesterday
I was maybe 10 years old and grandma used to store chocolates and condensed milk on a closet with a similar key/lock. It was easy to open and close it with a strong paper clip :)
– brasofilo
yesterday
1
1
I'm not sure drilling the centre is going to help. You'll just destroy the mechanism but the bolt will still be in place.
– chasly from UK
11 hours ago
I'm not sure drilling the centre is going to help. You'll just destroy the mechanism but the bolt will still be in place.
– chasly from UK
11 hours ago
@chaslyfromUK Then you can turn it sideways and shake and the bolt will slide out.
– wizzwizz4
7 hours ago
@chaslyfromUK Then you can turn it sideways and shake and the bolt will slide out.
– wizzwizz4
7 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
8
down vote
The original image of the key is interesting to me. You could just wander into the local locksmith and ask if they have a set of keys that might fit. There's a limited number of variants on these keys and you may just be able to buy one off the shelf as the lock is only a token gesture towards security.
If you're not overly attached to the lock, there's the question of how firmly it's attached. many cabinet locks are lightly attached to the inside of the door and if you attach a decent handle to the outside you could possibly just force it open. Though the hinges are quite heavy duty which implies a more solid door and lock mechanism.
add a comment |
up vote
8
down vote
The original image of the key is interesting to me. You could just wander into the local locksmith and ask if they have a set of keys that might fit. There's a limited number of variants on these keys and you may just be able to buy one off the shelf as the lock is only a token gesture towards security.
If you're not overly attached to the lock, there's the question of how firmly it's attached. many cabinet locks are lightly attached to the inside of the door and if you attach a decent handle to the outside you could possibly just force it open. Though the hinges are quite heavy duty which implies a more solid door and lock mechanism.
add a comment |
up vote
8
down vote
up vote
8
down vote
The original image of the key is interesting to me. You could just wander into the local locksmith and ask if they have a set of keys that might fit. There's a limited number of variants on these keys and you may just be able to buy one off the shelf as the lock is only a token gesture towards security.
If you're not overly attached to the lock, there's the question of how firmly it's attached. many cabinet locks are lightly attached to the inside of the door and if you attach a decent handle to the outside you could possibly just force it open. Though the hinges are quite heavy duty which implies a more solid door and lock mechanism.
The original image of the key is interesting to me. You could just wander into the local locksmith and ask if they have a set of keys that might fit. There's a limited number of variants on these keys and you may just be able to buy one off the shelf as the lock is only a token gesture towards security.
If you're not overly attached to the lock, there's the question of how firmly it's attached. many cabinet locks are lightly attached to the inside of the door and if you attach a decent handle to the outside you could possibly just force it open. Though the hinges are quite heavy duty which implies a more solid door and lock mechanism.
answered yesterday
Separatrix
1913
1913
add a comment |
add a comment |
up vote
7
down vote
Other suggested methods of removing the hinge pins or picking the locks are good.
You can also try to depress the latch via a thin wire if the door opens out or a thin plastic card if the door opens inward. What you goal would be is to depress the latch as if the door were closing on its own.
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2
This is what used to be call "jimmying" the door, then later came be "carding" the lock. Works well for simple locksets intended for interior doors.
– Zeiss Ikon
2 days ago
3
That won't work because it is a deadbolt, not the ones with a spring
– Guillermo Vasconcelos
2 days ago
@GuillermoVasconcelos - yes my suggestion would not work then, picking seems like the best bet.
– Gary Bak
yesterday
In BrE, a "jimmy" (or "jemmy") is usually a crowbar; it's not even vaguely the same as using a wire or card on the latch.
– Roger Lipscombe
yesterday
@RogerLipscombe Can't talk to older history, but when I was a kid, a jimmy was what later became a "slim jim" -- mainly for opening car doors when the key was locked inside. Thin and flexible. Still won't work on a deadbolt, though.
– Zeiss Ikon
yesterday
add a comment |
up vote
7
down vote
Other suggested methods of removing the hinge pins or picking the locks are good.
You can also try to depress the latch via a thin wire if the door opens out or a thin plastic card if the door opens inward. What you goal would be is to depress the latch as if the door were closing on its own.
New contributor
Gary Bak is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
2
This is what used to be call "jimmying" the door, then later came be "carding" the lock. Works well for simple locksets intended for interior doors.
– Zeiss Ikon
2 days ago
3
That won't work because it is a deadbolt, not the ones with a spring
– Guillermo Vasconcelos
2 days ago
@GuillermoVasconcelos - yes my suggestion would not work then, picking seems like the best bet.
– Gary Bak
yesterday
In BrE, a "jimmy" (or "jemmy") is usually a crowbar; it's not even vaguely the same as using a wire or card on the latch.
– Roger Lipscombe
yesterday
@RogerLipscombe Can't talk to older history, but when I was a kid, a jimmy was what later became a "slim jim" -- mainly for opening car doors when the key was locked inside. Thin and flexible. Still won't work on a deadbolt, though.
– Zeiss Ikon
yesterday
add a comment |
up vote
7
down vote
up vote
7
down vote
Other suggested methods of removing the hinge pins or picking the locks are good.
You can also try to depress the latch via a thin wire if the door opens out or a thin plastic card if the door opens inward. What you goal would be is to depress the latch as if the door were closing on its own.
New contributor
Gary Bak is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Other suggested methods of removing the hinge pins or picking the locks are good.
You can also try to depress the latch via a thin wire if the door opens out or a thin plastic card if the door opens inward. What you goal would be is to depress the latch as if the door were closing on its own.
New contributor
Gary Bak is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited yesterday
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answered 2 days ago
Gary Bak
1712
1712
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New contributor
Gary Bak is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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Gary Bak is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
2
This is what used to be call "jimmying" the door, then later came be "carding" the lock. Works well for simple locksets intended for interior doors.
– Zeiss Ikon
2 days ago
3
That won't work because it is a deadbolt, not the ones with a spring
– Guillermo Vasconcelos
2 days ago
@GuillermoVasconcelos - yes my suggestion would not work then, picking seems like the best bet.
– Gary Bak
yesterday
In BrE, a "jimmy" (or "jemmy") is usually a crowbar; it's not even vaguely the same as using a wire or card on the latch.
– Roger Lipscombe
yesterday
@RogerLipscombe Can't talk to older history, but when I was a kid, a jimmy was what later became a "slim jim" -- mainly for opening car doors when the key was locked inside. Thin and flexible. Still won't work on a deadbolt, though.
– Zeiss Ikon
yesterday
add a comment |
2
This is what used to be call "jimmying" the door, then later came be "carding" the lock. Works well for simple locksets intended for interior doors.
– Zeiss Ikon
2 days ago
3
That won't work because it is a deadbolt, not the ones with a spring
– Guillermo Vasconcelos
2 days ago
@GuillermoVasconcelos - yes my suggestion would not work then, picking seems like the best bet.
– Gary Bak
yesterday
In BrE, a "jimmy" (or "jemmy") is usually a crowbar; it's not even vaguely the same as using a wire or card on the latch.
– Roger Lipscombe
yesterday
@RogerLipscombe Can't talk to older history, but when I was a kid, a jimmy was what later became a "slim jim" -- mainly for opening car doors when the key was locked inside. Thin and flexible. Still won't work on a deadbolt, though.
– Zeiss Ikon
yesterday
2
2
This is what used to be call "jimmying" the door, then later came be "carding" the lock. Works well for simple locksets intended for interior doors.
– Zeiss Ikon
2 days ago
This is what used to be call "jimmying" the door, then later came be "carding" the lock. Works well for simple locksets intended for interior doors.
– Zeiss Ikon
2 days ago
3
3
That won't work because it is a deadbolt, not the ones with a spring
– Guillermo Vasconcelos
2 days ago
That won't work because it is a deadbolt, not the ones with a spring
– Guillermo Vasconcelos
2 days ago
@GuillermoVasconcelos - yes my suggestion would not work then, picking seems like the best bet.
– Gary Bak
yesterday
@GuillermoVasconcelos - yes my suggestion would not work then, picking seems like the best bet.
– Gary Bak
yesterday
In BrE, a "jimmy" (or "jemmy") is usually a crowbar; it's not even vaguely the same as using a wire or card on the latch.
– Roger Lipscombe
yesterday
In BrE, a "jimmy" (or "jemmy") is usually a crowbar; it's not even vaguely the same as using a wire or card on the latch.
– Roger Lipscombe
yesterday
@RogerLipscombe Can't talk to older history, but when I was a kid, a jimmy was what later became a "slim jim" -- mainly for opening car doors when the key was locked inside. Thin and flexible. Still won't work on a deadbolt, though.
– Zeiss Ikon
yesterday
@RogerLipscombe Can't talk to older history, but when I was a kid, a jimmy was what later became a "slim jim" -- mainly for opening car doors when the key was locked inside. Thin and flexible. Still won't work on a deadbolt, though.
– Zeiss Ikon
yesterday
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
Well, if you don't care about locking it again, I'd find my trusty old Fein multimaster cutter and just cut the lock open. Or if you want the gentle solution use a small hacksaw blade.
+1 to hacksaw. They cost pennies and you can easily fit the blade into that big gap
– Valorum
8 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
Well, if you don't care about locking it again, I'd find my trusty old Fein multimaster cutter and just cut the lock open. Or if you want the gentle solution use a small hacksaw blade.
+1 to hacksaw. They cost pennies and you can easily fit the blade into that big gap
– Valorum
8 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
Well, if you don't care about locking it again, I'd find my trusty old Fein multimaster cutter and just cut the lock open. Or if you want the gentle solution use a small hacksaw blade.
Well, if you don't care about locking it again, I'd find my trusty old Fein multimaster cutter and just cut the lock open. Or if you want the gentle solution use a small hacksaw blade.
answered yesterday
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Z0N5iEvWN3o/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAAASQ/xfNz19g-9RA/photo.jpg?sz=32)
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Z0N5iEvWN3o/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAAASQ/xfNz19g-9RA/photo.jpg?sz=32)
Stian Yttervik
1804
1804
+1 to hacksaw. They cost pennies and you can easily fit the blade into that big gap
– Valorum
8 hours ago
add a comment |
+1 to hacksaw. They cost pennies and you can easily fit the blade into that big gap
– Valorum
8 hours ago
+1 to hacksaw. They cost pennies and you can easily fit the blade into that big gap
– Valorum
8 hours ago
+1 to hacksaw. They cost pennies and you can easily fit the blade into that big gap
– Valorum
8 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
Use a punch and hammer. Insert the punch where the key would go...use the hammer to drive the lock mechanism off the back of the door. A couple of good whacks and you should be wide open. Shame to bust it though..I would try the bobby pin method first.
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up vote
1
down vote
Use a punch and hammer. Insert the punch where the key would go...use the hammer to drive the lock mechanism off the back of the door. A couple of good whacks and you should be wide open. Shame to bust it though..I would try the bobby pin method first.
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up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
Use a punch and hammer. Insert the punch where the key would go...use the hammer to drive the lock mechanism off the back of the door. A couple of good whacks and you should be wide open. Shame to bust it though..I would try the bobby pin method first.
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Use a punch and hammer. Insert the punch where the key would go...use the hammer to drive the lock mechanism off the back of the door. A couple of good whacks and you should be wide open. Shame to bust it though..I would try the bobby pin method first.
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answered yesterday
dazrite
111
111
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1
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Is that a skylight window above the door? Perhaps you can gain access through it.
I am not suggesting climbing in through the window -- that's probably not practical. But perhaps you can open it, and then with possibly reach through it with a stick or belt, open the lock from the inside.
I am assuming the door has an inside lock latch (for safety) which you might be able to toggle with a broomstick.
If such a latch is 'down' and you need to pull it 'up', a 1" eye-hook screwed into end of stick might give you the purchase you need to pull up on the latch. (You might need to screw the eye-hook in at 45degree angle on stick.)
A knob would be much harder to turn, but perhaps you could buckle a couple of belts together into a 3-4' diameter loop which you dangle down from the skylight, perhaps with some resin on one of them to make it 'sticky', loop one end around the knob as if it was a pulley, then attempt to turn it.
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up vote
1
down vote
Is that a skylight window above the door? Perhaps you can gain access through it.
I am not suggesting climbing in through the window -- that's probably not practical. But perhaps you can open it, and then with possibly reach through it with a stick or belt, open the lock from the inside.
I am assuming the door has an inside lock latch (for safety) which you might be able to toggle with a broomstick.
If such a latch is 'down' and you need to pull it 'up', a 1" eye-hook screwed into end of stick might give you the purchase you need to pull up on the latch. (You might need to screw the eye-hook in at 45degree angle on stick.)
A knob would be much harder to turn, but perhaps you could buckle a couple of belts together into a 3-4' diameter loop which you dangle down from the skylight, perhaps with some resin on one of them to make it 'sticky', loop one end around the knob as if it was a pulley, then attempt to turn it.
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Ellies Dad is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
Is that a skylight window above the door? Perhaps you can gain access through it.
I am not suggesting climbing in through the window -- that's probably not practical. But perhaps you can open it, and then with possibly reach through it with a stick or belt, open the lock from the inside.
I am assuming the door has an inside lock latch (for safety) which you might be able to toggle with a broomstick.
If such a latch is 'down' and you need to pull it 'up', a 1" eye-hook screwed into end of stick might give you the purchase you need to pull up on the latch. (You might need to screw the eye-hook in at 45degree angle on stick.)
A knob would be much harder to turn, but perhaps you could buckle a couple of belts together into a 3-4' diameter loop which you dangle down from the skylight, perhaps with some resin on one of them to make it 'sticky', loop one end around the knob as if it was a pulley, then attempt to turn it.
New contributor
Ellies Dad is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Is that a skylight window above the door? Perhaps you can gain access through it.
I am not suggesting climbing in through the window -- that's probably not practical. But perhaps you can open it, and then with possibly reach through it with a stick or belt, open the lock from the inside.
I am assuming the door has an inside lock latch (for safety) which you might be able to toggle with a broomstick.
If such a latch is 'down' and you need to pull it 'up', a 1" eye-hook screwed into end of stick might give you the purchase you need to pull up on the latch. (You might need to screw the eye-hook in at 45degree angle on stick.)
A knob would be much harder to turn, but perhaps you could buckle a couple of belts together into a 3-4' diameter loop which you dangle down from the skylight, perhaps with some resin on one of them to make it 'sticky', loop one end around the knob as if it was a pulley, then attempt to turn it.
New contributor
Ellies Dad is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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answered 14 hours ago
Ellies Dad
111
111
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up vote
0
down vote
One way is to cut horizontally through each hinge where the join is. Then the door will open outwards on the hinge side (provided it's not very stiff which is a problem anyway).
Look on YouTube and you will find many videos showing you how to pick or bypass different kinds of lock.
Example
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiFj3_4ZJcA
- Get a quote from a qualified locksmith. They will do it in seconds without damaging anything. It might be worth the money. Otherwise you could be spending it on repairing the closet.
add a comment |
up vote
0
down vote
One way is to cut horizontally through each hinge where the join is. Then the door will open outwards on the hinge side (provided it's not very stiff which is a problem anyway).
Look on YouTube and you will find many videos showing you how to pick or bypass different kinds of lock.
Example
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiFj3_4ZJcA
- Get a quote from a qualified locksmith. They will do it in seconds without damaging anything. It might be worth the money. Otherwise you could be spending it on repairing the closet.
add a comment |
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
One way is to cut horizontally through each hinge where the join is. Then the door will open outwards on the hinge side (provided it's not very stiff which is a problem anyway).
Look on YouTube and you will find many videos showing you how to pick or bypass different kinds of lock.
Example
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiFj3_4ZJcA
- Get a quote from a qualified locksmith. They will do it in seconds without damaging anything. It might be worth the money. Otherwise you could be spending it on repairing the closet.
One way is to cut horizontally through each hinge where the join is. Then the door will open outwards on the hinge side (provided it's not very stiff which is a problem anyway).
Look on YouTube and you will find many videos showing you how to pick or bypass different kinds of lock.
Example
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiFj3_4ZJcA
- Get a quote from a qualified locksmith. They will do it in seconds without damaging anything. It might be worth the money. Otherwise you could be spending it on repairing the closet.
answered 11 hours ago
![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jTz7e.png?s=32&g=1)
![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jTz7e.png?s=32&g=1)
chasly from UK
8982711
8982711
add a comment |
add a comment |
Guillermo Vasconcelos is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Guillermo Vasconcelos is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Guillermo Vasconcelos is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Guillermo Vasconcelos is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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3
You might want to firm up your question. I don't think "sawzall" is the answer you want but the question just about screams "sawzall" to me.
– Joshua
2 days ago
@Joshua I do not own a sawzall and do not plan to buy one, so it is not an option. Thanks for the suggestion
– Guillermo Vasconcelos
2 days ago
We really need a picture of the lock and the door. Not just the key. Not being familiar with US English, I'm not sure what you mean by 'closet'. Is it built into the wall or is it free-standing?
– chasly from UK
yesterday
The door hinges are designed so that the door would be removed by opening it and then lifting it off the hinges, rather than by removing the hinge pin. The lighting of the picture is not very good, but the appearance is consistent with either a crude warded lock or a crude lever lock. Does the keyhole extend all the way through the door? If so, and you can get a dowel the right diameter to serve as the shaft of the key, you might try putting a small finishing nail in the side of it (maybe an inch from the end), extending out about as far as a key would go, and then...
– supercat
yesterday
...inserting it to different depths and turning it to see whether you feel spring-loaded levers or rigid warding.
– supercat
yesterday